Comparing Sikh Dastar Materials (Mal Mal, Full Voile, Rubia)
The main fabrics for Sikh turbans are Mal Mal (also called F74), Full Voile, and Rubia. Each has unique qualities in texture, breathability, durability, and suitability for certain tying styles.
Please also take a look at our in-depth dastar style guide where we compare four popular turban styles – Nok, Gol, Kenyan and Dumalla – highlighting their appearance, cultural significance, and typical use.
Mal Mal (F74 Cotton)
•Texture & Feel: Mal Mal is a very thin, soft muslin-like cotton. It is the lightest and finest weave among turban fabrics . The fibers are tightly twisted but woven loosely, yielding a fabric that feels gentle and almost gauzy to the touch. New Mal Mal cloth already comes quite soft and doesn’t have the stiff sizing that heavier fabrics might – so it usually doesn’t require extensive pre-washing or starch removal . Many compare its delicate, airy feel to that of a soft scarf. Because of its light weight, Mal Mal layers nestle smoothly without bulk, giving a comfortable, barely-there sensation on the head.
•Breathability & Comfort: This material is extremely breathable and ideal for hot climates. Its ultra-light, porous weave allows air circulation, which helps keep the head cool even in high temperatures . Mal Mal is famously used in India’s scorching summers – it remains one of the most efficient cloths for 40°C–50°C heat . Even when tying many layers (for example, in a dumalla), the turban doesn’t become too heavy or suffocating. For this reason, Mal Mal is often recommended for children or newcomers learning to tie turbans, since it’s easy on the head and not tight or itchy. In humid or very warm weather, Mal Mal offers maximum comfort and minimal sweat retention.
•Durability & Maintenance: Due to its fine, very light weave, Mal Mal is the least durable of the three. The thin fabric can wear out faster – edges may fray and small tears can develop if pulled or caught. It requires gentle care in washing (preferably hand-wash or delicate cycle) to avoid damage. That said, SikhiStores good-quality F74 Mal Mal is made with high-twist cotton yarns and can last a long time if treated carefully . It doesn’t usually bleed colour much and dries quickly after washing. Unlike heavier fabrics, Mal Mal does not hold starch well – and generally people do not starch Mal Mal turbans (they’re meant to be worn soft). Storing a Mal Mal dastar properly (folded or rolled to prevent snagging) will extend its life. Expect that a Mal Mal turban might not survive rough use (like a lot of pinning or frequent untying) as robustly as a Rubia turban would.
•Best Uses & Turban Styles: Mal Mal is perfect for Dumalla and multi-layered turbans. Because it’s so thin, you can wrap many meters of Mal Mal without the turban becoming too bulky or heavy – this is why most traditional dumalla-wearers prefer Mal Mal. It’s also great for under-turbans (Keski) or making a small gol dastar, since it adds minimal weight. Beginners learning round turban or kids just starting out often use Mal Mal for its forgiving nature . However, Mal Mal may not give a very “crisp” look for Nok or Kenyan styles – the larrs (folds) won’t be as sharp due to the softness. For a very sharp Nok pagg, wearers sometimes layer a Mal Mal base and finish with a crisper material on top. In summary: choose Mal Mal if you value lightness and comfort (especially in heat) or if you plan to tie a large traditional turban with lots of layering. It may not be the best for achieving angular, well-defined turban shapes, but it excels in providing comfort and a classic, flowy drape.
Full Voile
•Texture & Feel: Full Voile is a medium-weight cotton fabric with a soft, smooth finish. It’s woven with a balanced thread count (often a 2×2 high-twist yarn) that gives it a fine but slightly crisper texture than Mal Mal . When you run it through your fingers, full voile feels sheer and light, but with a bit more body or “oomph” than Mal Mal. Brand new full voile may be lightly starched from manufacturing; after an initial wash or soak, it becomes very supple and easy to pleat . It strikes a nice balance – not too flimsy, not too thick. Many turban wearers describe it as “buttery soft” once broken in. It also has a slight transparency when held to light (an indicator of its fine quality), though less see-through than Mal Mal.
•Breathability & Comfort: As a lightweight 100% cotton, full voile is highly breathable and suitable for most climates. It allows airflow and wicks moisture reasonably well. In hot weather, a single or double-layer full voile pagg is comfortable (though not as feather-light as Mal Mal). In cooler weather, its slightly tighter weave provides a bit of warmth without feeling stuffy. Essentially, full voile is an all-season fabric – it adapts to weather, keeping you cool in summer and not too cold in winter. After soaking overnight (a common practice to soften the material), it sits nicely on the head with minimal pressure points . Full voile is the most commonly worn material among Sikhs in regions like the UK and North America , likely because of this versatility. Even for active use (say, a day of work or mild exercise), a full voile turban remains fairly comfortable and doesn’t trap excessive heat.
•Durability & Maintenance: Good-quality full voile is moderately durable – more robust than Mal Mal but lighter than Rubia. It has a light weave (not densely packed) , which means edges can fray over time and the fabric can develop thin spots after prolonged use, but with proper care it lasts well. Regular washing actually improves its softness. It’s advisable to wash full voile turbans before first use to wash out any excess dye and soften the fibers. The colour retention is usually good because the fabric is kept longer in dye during production for depth of colour. Full voile dries relatively fast and doesn’t usually require ironing if tied soon after folding, though a quick press can help achieve sharper pleats. One should avoid over-starching full voile; a little starch can give it some crispness for Nok styles, but too much can make it brittle. With everyday wear, a full voile turban can easily last a year or more in great condition. It strikes a good equilibrium of easy care and longevity – not as finicky as Mal Mal, not as heavy-duty as Rubia.
•Best Uses & Turban Styles: Full Voile is the most versatile fabric, suitable for nearly all dastar styles. If you are unsure which material to start with, full voile is a safe bet for Nok/Patiala-Shahi turbans, Kenyan styles, or even moderate-sized Dumallas. It holds folds and shapes well, so you can achieve that nice V-shape in a Nok dastar or the clean round of a gol dastar. Many Sikhs use full voile for everyday turbans (whether round or pointed) because it strikes a balance between looking good and feeling comfortable. It’s also common to use full voile in layered styles: for example, wearing a small Mal Mal keski and then a full-voile turban on top for a blend of comfort and form. For very large dumalla turbans with multiple wraps, some people still prefer Mal Mal over full voile (since full voile, being thicker, will add weight with each additional layer). However, a smaller gol parna or medium dumalla can be tied with full voile without issue – it will have a slightly fuller, more pronounced shape compared to Mal Mal . In summary, choose full voile if you want a well-rounded fabric that delivers on both comfort and presentation, and if you desire flexibility to tie different styles (from casual to formal) with the same material .
Rubia
•Texture & Feel: Rubia is the thickest and heaviest of the common turban fabrics. It is woven with a dense thread count (tightly packed cotton yarns) that give it a firm, substantial feel . To the touch, Rubia feels sturdy and slightly coarse when new, due to the heavier yarn and often a starch or sizing finish from the mill. After a few washes, it becomes softer but still has a noticeable weight and thickness. Compared to voile, Rubia cloth is more opaque and less drapey – if you hold it, it doesn’t flow as easily; it has more structure. Some describe it as “canvas-like” when starched. Despite the thickness, SikhiStores rubia is still cotton, so it does become quite soft on the skin over time, but it will always give a fuller, more padded wrap around the head. This material gives a turban a prominent presence; even a smaller length of Rubia can look voluminous when tied.
•Breathability & Comfort: Because Rubia is thicker and more tightly woven, it is the least breathable of the three fabrics. In hot or humid weather, a Rubia pagri can feel warm and less airy – it traps more heat. Those who wear Rubia in summer often tie it a bit looser or wear a thinner under-turban to absorb sweat. However, in moderate or cool climates, Rubia can be quite comfortable, offering a cozy, secure feel. Once broken in, it sits nicely and its weight is reassuring rather than cumbersome for many wearers. It’s worth noting that Rubia turbans are often tied slightly differently to manage the weight – some may use fewer layers or a shorter length to avoid overheating. Overall, if comfort in heat is a priority, Rubia might not be the first choice; but for everyday wear in mild climates or short durations, many Sikhs find it comfortable enough, especially given the neat appearance it provides. It’s also common for people to combine materials for comfort – e.g. using a Mal Mal bunga (base layer) under a Rubia turban to get the best of both (soft on the hair, sturdy on the outside) .
•Durability & Maintenance: Durability is where Rubia shines. Thanks to its dense weave and weight, a Rubia dastar is very robust and can withstand a lot of wear and tear. The fabric’s thickness makes it tear-resistant and long-lasting – it won’t rip easily if snagged, and the edges don’t fray as quickly as lighter cloth. It also holds color well; being kept longer in dye during production, it has rich color depth that stays vibrant . Maintenance-wise, a new Rubia turban will benefit from soaking overnight or a few wash cycles to soften it up (and to remove excess dye) . Once softened, tying becomes easier and the turban will mold to the head better. Rubia, due to its weight, takes a bit longer to dry after washing. Ironing might be needed to get crisp pleats if that’s desired; the material does respond well to ironing, holding a sharp crease for that perfect layered look. One thing to note: because rubia is thicker, a turban made of it can be heavier on the head pins (if you pin your turban) or stretch out under its own weight over a long day – but the fabric itself will not stretch out of shape much (minimal elasticity). In terms of longevity, a Rubia turban can last many years; even if the surface gets slightly worn, it remains completely serviceable. It is the most maintenance-friendly in the sense that it’s tough – you don’t have to baby it when washing or tying. Just be mindful of thoroughly drying it to prevent any mildew (since thick cotton can hold moisture).
•Best Uses & Turban Styles: Rubia is often chosen for sharp, big turban styles where a defined shape is desired. For example, a classic Patiala Shahi or Nok turban looks excellent in Rubia – the material’s heft gives clean, pronounced layers and a “full” turban appearance . Many older generations and leaders wear Rubia turbans to convey a regal, well-put-together look. If you want your turban to sit firmly and not shift much, Rubia can provide that stability. It’s also a top choice for formal occasions – the thick fabric holds elaborate wraps (like the fan-shaped “farra” some tie at the turban’s end) nicely. However, for Dumalla, Rubia is less popular: its thickness makes tying many layers challenging and heavy. Some who prefer Rubia for a dumalla will use it only as the outer layer and use Mal Mal for the inner layers . Generally, Rubia is suited for single-piece turbans rather than multi-layer wraps. It is also a good material if you like to starch your turban for a very stiff look – Rubia can absorb starch and still not become too fragile. In summary, choose Rubia if you value structure, durability, and a bold look. It’s ideal for medium to large pointed turbans and everyday wear in a setting where you want your dastar to maintain form all day. Just keep in mind the trade-off in breathability if you live in a hot climate or have a very active day planned.
Conclusion: Choosing the Right Style and Material
When choosing a dastar, consider when and where you’ll wear it, and what statement or comfort level you want. If you live in a hot climate or prefer a lighter feel, a Gol style or Kenyan-style turban in Mal Mal or Full Voile might suit you best, as it will be breathable and easy on the head. If you want a more formal, majestic look for special occasions or daily elegance, a Nok/Patiala Shahi style in Full Voile or Rubia will give you sharp lines and a royal flair. Those seeking to express traditional Sikh values or warrior heritage might opt for a Dumalla (or even a Gol dastar) with Mal Mal fabric, emphasising comfort and authenticity for a devout appearance. And remember, there’s no strict rule – many mix and match (e.g. a Full Voile turban for work, a Dumalla on weekends, or a Rubia turban in winter and Mal Mal in summer). The key is that you feel comfortable and confident. As one Sikh advisor notes, choose a style that “you like the look of and that’s convenient for your lifestyle”, because any turban worn with respect is the “actual” dastar in the spirit of Sikhi . With the comparisons above, you can make an informed decision that honors both tradition and your personal needs, proudly wearing a dastar that feels like you.