Comparing Sikh Dastar Styles

Choosing the right Sikh Dastar (turban) involves understanding both the style and the material. Below, we will compare four popular turban styles – Nok, Gol, Kenyan and Dumalla – highlighting their appearance, cultural significance, and typical use. This guide will help you choose a turban style and fabric that best suits your needs.

Please also take a look at our in-depth dastar material guide where we compare the three common turban materials – Mal Mal (F74), Full Voile, and Rubia – in terms of texture, comfort, durability, and suitability for each style.

Nok Dastar (Pointed Turban)

•Distinct Appearance & Tying: Nok means “point” in Punjabi. A Nok dastar features an upside down V-shaped front with a pronounced peak/point at the forehead. The cloth is wrapped to create an angular front (often a “V” or wedge shape) rather than a rounded contour. Multiple layered larrs (folds) are visible, usually symmetric, creating a regal, triangular silhouette. This style is also known in some circles as the Patiala Shahi turban, a royal style characterised by folded layers on both sides.

•Cultural Significance & History: The Nok style has roots in Punjab’s royal and military history. Maharaja Bhupinder Singh of Patiala popularised a pointed turban style (“Patiala Shahi”) in the early 1900s . During the colonial era, Sikh soldiers in the British Indian Army adopted triangular turban styles, which then trickled into popular Sikh fashion.

Over time, the Nok dastar has become mainstream for Sikh men worldwide, evolving into the common style most Sikhs wear today. It’s viewed as a modern, formal look, though historically some say it is a departure from the original dumalla given by the Gurus. Nonetheless, it remains an accepted part of Sikh identity – one of the “historical styles” (along with gol parna and dumalla) that continues to evolve in modern times.

•When & Where It’s Worn: The Nok or pointed turban is widely worn for daily wear, celebrations, and ceremonies. Its elegant, crown-like shape makes it popular for weddings, festivals, and public appearances. You’ll see this style across the Sikh diaspora and in India – from Gurdwara services to formal events. It’s a versatile choice that balances tradition and contemporary style.

•Materials: Full Voile or Rubia

Full Voile is the most versatile fabric, suitable for nearly all dastar styles. If you are unsure which material to start with, full voile is a safe bet. It holds folds and shapes well, so you can achieve that nice V-shape in a Nok dastar. Many use full voile for everyday turbans (whether round or pointed) because it strikes a balance between looking good and feeling comfortable. It’s also common to use full voile in layered styles: for example, wearing a small Mal Mal keski and then a full-voile turban on top for a blend of comfort and form.

A classic Patiala Shahi or Nok turban looks excellent in Rubia – the material’s heft gives clean, pronounced layers and a “full” turban appearance. Many wear Rubia turbans to convey a regal, well-put-together look. If you want your turban to sit firmly and not shift much, Rubia can provide that stability along with offering structure, durability, and a bold look. It’s ideal for medium to large pointed turbans and everyday wear in a setting where you want your dastar to maintain form all day

Gol Dastar (Round Turban)

•Distinct Appearance & Tying: Gol means “round” in Punjabi. A gol dastar is tied in a round, domed shape with no peaks in front. The wraps form a smooth oval or circular profile around the head. Layers are usually wrapped evenly and may partially cover the ears depending on size. This style often uses fewer lengthwise folds in front, creating a softer, streamlined look. It can be tied with a single long cloth or a shorter turban (often called a parna when tied casually).

•Cultural Significance & Historical Background: The round turban is one of the oldest Sikh styles, associated with simplicity, practicality, and sometimes spirituality. In rural Punjab, a gol parna (casual round turban) was commonly worn while working in fields due to its ease and comfort . It’s easier to tie than elaborate Nok styles and was often used as a quick everyday turban. Many Sikh saints favoured the gol style – typically a white round dastar – to project a humble, saintly image, as it symbolised a simple lifestyle compared to the ornate “royal” styles. Historically, the gol style overlaps with the concept of a keski (under-turban) – early Khalsa Sikhs tied a small round turban to secure their hair before donning a larger pagri . Even as turban fashions changed, the round turban persisted informally in villages and among traditionalists.

•When & Where It’s Worn: Today the gol dastar is less common in urban settings but still seen in religious or casual contexts. Sikhs might wear a small gol parna at home, at the gym, or doing manual work for comfort and practicality. It’s also popular among Taksali Sikhs and Nihang Sikhs in a modified form (often as a base layer under a dumalla). In recent years, round turbans have gained some renewed popularity among younger Sikhs (especially in the West) seeking a connection to traditional looks – for instance, wearing a round turban with Punjabi attire for cultural programs. Overall, the gol dastar is viewed as a classic, old-school style that emphasises comfort and a devout, no-frills appearance.

•Materials: Mal Mal or Full Voile

Mal Mal is perfect for Dumalla and multi-layered turbans. Because it’s so thin, you can wrap many meters of Mal Mal without the turban becoming too bulky or heavy – this is why most traditional dumalla-wearers prefer Mal Mal or similar fine fabrics. It’s also great for under-turbans (Keski) or making a small gol dastar, since it adds minimal weight. Beginners learning round turban or kids just starting out often use Mal Mal for its forgiving nature.

Full Voile is the most versatile fabric, suitable for nearly all dastar styles. If you are unsure which material to start with, full voile is a safe bet. It holds folds and shapes well, so you can achieve the clean round of a gol dastar. Many use full voile for everyday turbans (whether round or pointed) because it strikes a balance between looking good and feeling comfortable. It’s also common to use full voile in layered styles: for example, wearing a small Mal Mal keski and then a full-voile turban on top for a blend of comfort and form.

Kenyan Dastar (East African Style)

•Distinct Appearance & Tying: The Kenyan style dastar is neatly folded and typically but not always smaller than other styles. They are also sometimes stiffened with starch to hold its shape. It sits higher on the head with a sharp “chunji” (peak) at the front.

•Cultural Significance & History: This style developed among Sikhs in East Africa (Kenya, Uganda, etc.) in the mid-20th century. The hot equatorial climate influenced its design – making turbans smaller, with fewer layers, to keep the wearer cool . Older Sikh men in East Africa from the 1940s onward tied this compact turban, and it became an identity marker.

•When & Where It’s Worn: The Kenyan style remains popular in the Sikh diaspora, especially in the UK among families with East African heritage. Sikh youth in Britain often sport a tightly tied, high turban with a pointed summit, which is directly influenced by the East African Sikh turban tradition. It’s commonly worn for everyday wear and formal occasions by those who prefer a crisp, stylish profile that accentuates facial features.

•Materials: Full Voile or Rubia

Full Voile is the most versatile fabric, suitable for nearly all dastar styles. If you are unsure which material to start with, full voile is a safe bet. It holds folds and shapes well. It’s also common to use full voile in layered styles: for example, wearing a small Mal Mal keski and then a full-voile turban on top for a blend of comfort and form Full voile dries relatively fast and doesn’t usually require ironing if tied soon after folding, though a quick press can help achieve sharper pleats. One should avoid over-starching full voile; a little starch can give it some crispness, but too much can make it brittle.

Rubia is often chosen for sharp, big turban styles where a defined shape is desired. The material’s heft gives clean, pronounced layers and a “full” turban appearance. It is also a good material if you like to starch your turban for a very stiff look – Rubia can absorb starch and still not become too fragile.

Dumalla Dastar

•Distinct Appearance & Tying: The Dumalla is a large, round layered turban often consisting of two or more pieces of cloth. The word Dumalla literally means “double turban,” reflecting the use of an inner turban (often a small gol keski) and an outer turban. A Dumalla is usually taller and bulkier, wrapped around and over the jūra (topknot) with many layers, and it typically covers the ears and sides of the head completely . The front may be adorned with traditional Sikh warrior ornaments like a Chand Tora (crescent and quoits) or small shastars (weapons) embedded between layers, especially in the Nihang version. The tying style involves creating a base over the hair knot (sometimes called a bunga) and then wrapping the cloth around in criss-cross rounds, often ending with a distinctive “V” shape or cross pattern at the forehead. The Dumalla’s appearance is majestic and distinctly Khalsa (warrior) style.

•Cultural Significance & Historical Background: The Dumalla holds great religious and historical significance. It is considered the original Sikh turban of the Khalsa inaugurated by Guru Gobind Singh. In Sikh history, Guru Gobind Singh Ji personally tied beautiful dumallas on his two elder sons, Baba Ajit Singh and Baba Jujhar Singh, underscoring that this rounded warrior turban was the Guru’s gift to the Khalsa. Nihang Sikhs (the Sikh warrior order) have worn the dumalla since the 17th–18th century as part of their battle attire, sometimes building extremely large “tower” turbans (Bunga Dastars) with a flag-like farla on top as a symbol of readiness to fight. The modern dumalla, typically associated with Nihangs, is essentially a larger Khalsa-style turban from that warrior tradition – one that fully protects the head and symbolises courage and spirituality. Wearing a dumalla is often seen as a sign of being an Amritdhari (formally initiated Sikh) or someone deeply rooted in Sikh orthodoxy. It carries a sense of pride, responsibility, and connection to Sikh heritage.

•When & Where It’s Worn: Dumalla dastars are commonly worn by Nihang Sikhs, religious leaders, and devout Amritdhari Sikhs during daily life and especially during religious ceremonies or martial displays. You will see many men (and some women) in dumalla at events like Amrit Sanchar (initiation ceremonies), Gatka exhibitions (Sikh martial arts), and important Sikh holidays like Vaisakhi. Outside of warrior circles, some Sikh musicians (ragis) and members of groups like AKJ (Akhand Kirtani Jatha) favor the dumalla style as well. While it’s less common among the general population for everyday wear (due to its size and the skill needed to tie it), it’s not restricted – any Sikh may choose to wear a dumalla as their daily turban to make a strong identity statement. Because of its bulk and weight, tying a dumalla is typically reserved for extended wear or special occasions rather than quick outings. Those who do wear it daily often have a lot of experience and commitment to the style. In summary, the dumalla is a traditional turban, embodying Sikh martial spirit and devotion, worn when one wants to fully represent the Khalsa identity.

•Materials: Mal Mal or Full Voile

Mal Mal is perfect for Dumalla and multi-layered turbans. Because it’s so thin, you can wrap many meters of Mal Mal without the turban becoming too bulky or heavy – this is why most traditional dumalla-wearers prefer Mal Mal or similar fine fabrics. It’s also great for under-turbans (Keski), since it adds minimal weight. Beginners learning round turban or kids just starting out often use Mal Mal for its forgiving nature.

For very large dumalla turbans with multiple wraps, some people still prefer Mal Mal over full voile (since full voile, being thicker, will add weight with each additional layer). However, a smaller or medium dumalla can be tied with full voile without issue – it will have a slightly fuller, more pronounced shape compared to Mal Mal.